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Going Bananas
From: InnSpire - Issue 68 – August 2007

While in Scotland recently we had a day trip to Dumfries; a quick shufty at the Good Beer Guide set us on course for the Cavens Arms on Buccleuch Street and I ended up savouring Top Banana, brewed by Caledonian.

The brewery (known locally as the Caley) is based in the Slateford area of Edinburgh and was started up in 1869 by George Lorimer Jnr and Robert Clark. On George’s death in 1919, the business was taken over by the Vaux Group, which remained in control until a threat of closure loomed in 1987. Thankfully, there was a management buyout, which kept the brewery going. Scottish & Newcastle purchased the premises in 2004. A new Caledonian Brewery company was formed and it has become a well-known and successful concern.

Caledonian beers are a common sight in pubs nationwide, thanks mainly to the success of their Deuchars IPA, which won the Champion Beer of Britain award in 2002. It is now quite common to see their other beers, such as 80/- (a fruity red/brown 4.1 % ABV beer), XPA (a pale flavoursome 4.3% brew) and Rebus (4.4% and named after the Ian Rankin character).

Top Banana is part of the Caledonian seasonal beer portfolio - we drank it at the end of June. Apparently, bananas were chosen as a joke at the Sales Director’s expense! Each 4.1 % ABV brew is produced using around 3kg of Fairtrade fruit, and a blend of Challenger, Pioneer, Sovereign and Bodicea hops. The beer is a darkish golden colour with a reasonably long lasting, off-white head. The aroma is quite malty (like toast), mixed with a subtle fruitiness (not surprisingly, there are some banana elements there) and a little sweetness. Texture is smooth and medium bodied, with a nice mouthfeel.

Compared with brews like Charles Wells Banana Bread Beer, the banana flavour isn’t overpowering and it is possible to enjoy it even if you aren’t a big fan of that particular fruit. This sweet fruit flavour is balanced nicely by the hop mix, which gives bitterness and a slight citrus taste. The underlying flavour is a soft biscuity malt that brings all the other elements together. This all leads to a drier finish and a reasonably long lasting bitter aftertaste. It is an easy to drink, mid strength beer that is well balanced and full of subtle flavours. Apart from the banana, my favourite taste in this beer is the base soft malt and the slight bitter flavour that comes through towards the end. The golden colour is also quite appealing to the eye and on a warm sunny day it was a very tempting looking beer indeed!

Since our Scottish holiday, we have found Top Banana in two of our local pubs: the Market and the Portland in Chesterfield town centre. You are assured of a tasty and refreshing beer.

Don’t monkey around, try to pick yourself a Top Banana before stocks run out – then again, there’s always next year’s crop!

www.caledonian-brewery.co.uk

Andrea Waterhouse

Solid as a rock
From: InnSpire - Issue 67 – June 2007

I spent the ‘Mild Month’ of May month sampling new brews (as well as old favourites), and during a trip to the Plough Inn at Radford I tried Rock Mild - brewed by Nottingham Brewery. Set up in October 2001 by Niven Balfour and Phil Darby, the brewery is based in outbuildings behind the Plough. Although popular, they aim to stay a small local microbrewery and only sell their products to a limited number of outlets, mainly in the Nottingham area. Among the beer range currently produced are Rock Bitter (a pale, session beer at 3.8% ABV), Sooty Oatmeal Stout (a full-bodied 4.8% brew) and Nottingham Supreme (a strong, light and hoppy 5.2% beer).

Rock Mild was brewed to complement Rock Bitter - it is identical in strength. The latter is pale and bitter; the Mild is dark and sweet. Milds originate in the Middle Ages - the first written reference comes in a song of 1551, by William Stevenson: “I stuff my skyn so full within, Of jolly good milde and olde”. Rock Mild is a lower strength, dark ruby coloured beer with a lasting (but small) head. The aroma is fruity, with dark fruit (blackberry mainly) predominant. There is also a scent of floral hops in a base of roasted malt and a little sweetness. Texture is quite smooth, rather than the wateriness anticipated of this beer style.

Rock Mild’s flavour almost repeats the elements present in the aroma. It starts of quite sweet, as the dark fruit and sweet flowery hops come to the fore. As you drink it becomes increasingly bitter, leading to a dry and bitter finish, and aftertaste. There is also quite a lot of roasty malt and towards the end you will find flavours of dark treacle and slightly burnt toffee. It is surprisingly complex and quite well balanced too.

For a beer that is only 3.8% ABV, Rock Mild is a tasty beer with a good mix of flavours. As a Mild, it is a little unconventional because it is hoppier than most. It is a good introduction, though, to the Mild style, as it is less ‘different’ and thus perhaps daunting for the non-Mild fan.

I always choose Rock Mild whenever we visit the Plough at Radford. It isn’t too strong – so it is a good daytime beer, or a good beer to start off a session with because you can still taste other beers afterwards. To be honest I do prefer to just have a couple and then move up to something a little more robust, with slightly more character.

As Rock Mild and other Nottingham Brewery beers are usually confined to the Plough and to beer festivals, it is rarely seen in Derbyshire pubs. Mind you, a good reason to drink Rock Mild at the Plough is down to its role as the ‘Brewery Tap’ - the beer is invariably cheaper than in most other establishments. There is also the full range of Nottingham Brewery beers available, many - including the Mild - under the magic £2.00 a pint mark.

I thoroughly recommend that you give Mild a chance and keep trying it throughout the year. It is an undervalued part of our brewing heritage. Ask your local landlord to include one on the bar (there are more to choose from than you might think) and, if possible, recommend Rock Mild from Nottingham Brewery as a good one for them to start stocking.

It is easy to drink, pretty tasty and consistent in flavour and quality. Go on… you know it makes sense! www.nottinghambrewery.com

Andrea Waterhouse

Have a ‘Blonde Moment’!
From: InnSpire - Issue 66 – April 2007

As the spring weather promises to be a little bit brighter, and the nights are getting lighter, my thoughts are turning towards the light side - of beer, of course… rather than those dark winter warmers. When we were planning for our recent Beer Festival, we were making choices from each of our local breweries - as Bradfield Brewery are not too far away in South Yorkshire, we opted for three from their portfolio. One of these is Farmers Blonde - a beer that is becoming increasingly popular with Real Ale fans.

Bradfield Brewery is housed in a former dairy farm, using their own Peak District water and natural ingredients to produce a range of cask ales - many of which have won awards from the brewing industry and CAMRA beer festivals around the country. They currently brew four regular beers alongside a selection of special and seasonal beers. These include Farmers Stout (dark and roasty at 4.5% ABV), Farmers Bitter (at 3.9%, a good standard bitter) and Belgian Blue (a 4.9% Christmas ale).

The majority of Bradfield beers take the inspiration for their pumpclip pictures from the farm. All their artwork also features a millstone - showing their Peak District roots. Farmers Blonde shows a rather pretty - for a bovine - blonde cow as its main image. This popular beer has recently won the Gold Award - Speciality Beers category - in the SIBA (Small Independent Brewers Association) North regional competition.

Farmers Blonde weighs in at 4.0% ABV and, as you would expect, is a pale yellow blonde beer - clear and bright with a small off white head. Aroma is primarily of citrus fruit (lemon), with hints of caramel, honey sweetness and a very slight spiciness. Texture is light, fresh, but is slightly grainy on the palate.

The flavours of this beer are also quite light and fresh. There is a pleasant fruitiness throughout, nicely balanced out by an underlying lemon flavour. As you drink a sweetness develops, via a light malt taste and an almondy hint. Add to this a little spice, the same honey flavour that was present in the aroma and you get a complex and tasty beer. The finish and aftertaste are also quite sweet, but not overly so.

Of the beers I have tried from Bradfield Brewery, Farmers Blonde and Farmers Stout are my favourites; the blonde being definitely my all round choice. It is tasty and light - certainly a refreshing beer for a summer's night, but it also has bags of flavour, making it suitable for any time of year. There is a lot going on and there are several layers of flavours that develop and give a good mix of tastes - a sign of a well crafted beer. The light golden colour also gives it a wider appeal - the excellent taste makes it a favourite with the Real Ale drinkers, but the colour and freshness will hopefully entice some of the lagerboys and girls!

My last sample of Farmers Blonde was at the Sheaf View in Sheffield; their prices are around the £1.85 a pint mark, but generally expect to pay between £2.00 and £2.40. The
brewery regularly supplies pubs in our area and as a SIBA member, their beers are more readily available to public houses that are tied to pubcos.

I certainly recommend Farmers Blonde to those who appreciate a refreshing, slightly sweet blonde beer - it is one that I have enjoyed again and again!

www.bradfieldbrewery.co.uk

Andrea Waterhouse

Cromwell's got his hat on!
From: InnSpire - Issue 65 – February 2007

One of the best things about winter is winter beer - strong, full of taste and warming on a winter's night. Over the last couple of weeks we have been fortunate to have one of the better examples down at our local pub. Cromwell's Hat is a beer brewed to suit the season, by Springhead Brewery.

They began life back in 1990 as the smallest micro-brewery in England. Brewing began in a small outbuilding next to the brewer's house but, as production and demand increased, they moved to a custom built brewery on an industrial estate in Sutton on Trent, near Newark in Nottinghamshire. "Springhead" refers to a bend in the River Trent; the place where the brewery was sited. The head brewer (Shirley Reynolds) is extremely proud of her range of beers which have built up over the years. They can be found in pubs nationwide (though more readily available in the Nottinghamshire and Derbyshire areas), Beer Festivals and also can be purchased for drinking at home, direct from the brewery. These beers include Roaring Meg (a strong blonde ale at 5.5% ABV), Puritans Porter (a dark, tasty porter at 4.0% ABV) and Charlie's Angel (a light coloured, fruity beer at 4.5% ABV). You can also go and visit the brewery and tours are available - you need to contact the brewery and they can take up to 40 people.

Springhead beers tend to take the English Civil War as the inspiration for their names. Cromwell's Hat is no exception! The name of this particular brew refers to the occasion when Cromwell was offered the Crown of England, after Charles I was beheaded. As a politician Oliver Cromwell was more comfortable staying as Lord Protector, rather than becoming a King. Keeping his hat instead of donning the crown was his way of showing he had maintained his parliamentary principles and not taken on any Royalist ideals. Thus, the beer Cromwell's Hat was born! As a seasonal beer, Cromwell's Hat is only available during November and December. It is a strong beer though and may often linger in pubs until a short while into January.

Cromwell's Hat weighs in at 6.0% ABV and is placed firmly in the category of a Strong Bitter. It is a winter beer, brewed using Northdown Hops, Pale Crystal Malt and with the addition of cinnamon and juniper berries for added wintry flavours. Looks wise, it is a dark brown beer with a slightly copper red tinge. The head is slightly off white in colour, medium in size and lingers for the majority of your pint. Aroma is spicy like mulled wine (the cinnamon and juniper berries really show through), combined with a slight honey sweetness, hints of blackcurrants and a slight cola smell. Body is quite syrupy and full bodied, much as you would expect from a strong beer, but with a good amount of conditioning making it less heavy than some winter ales. It is quite smooth in the mouth and rich on the palate too. It is a nice warming beer that has a good combination of flavours you would associate with a winter or Christmas beer. Primary flavours are the sweetness of honey and a soft maltiness. This is combined with a vinous fruit flavour (a little like a deep red wine), and the spiciness of the juniper and cinnamon, which builds in strength as the pint progresses. This all leads to a short bitter/sweet finish and an aftertaste that is warming and has a spicy tingle.

Cromwell's Hat isn't a beer I drink regularly. This isn't because I don't like it though! It's mainly down to circumstance and planning - At 6% ABV it is pretty strong, so I usually reserve it for a last long drink at the end of the night. Also, it is a seasonally produced beer, so my sampling of Cromwell's Hat is limited to just a couple of months out of the year. It is a beer to be sipped and savoured and not a beer to be swilled and glugged down. The strength makes it an ideal beer to take your time on - this also gives you a chance to fully appreciate the flavours that build up as you drink and as the beer warms up a little. I recommend that you drink it on the warmer side of chilled, otherwise it won't reach its full potential in terms of depth and character. My last couple of pints of Cromwell's Hat were enjoyed in The Industry - the pub around the corner from me. Here we paid £2.40 a pint for an excellent quality beer. Previously I had tried it during a trip to Springhead Brewery, where a sample of it was included in our tour. The Industry had it on the bar for about a week and we popped in on a few evenings and had one each on each occasion. I did find that as the beer got older (meaning it had been maturing in the cask down in the cellar for longer) it got even better and the flavour towards the end of the cask was much more developed and fuller. The young (less matured) beer at the beginning of the cask was still tasty, but not as balanced and strong.

I can appreciate that a few people won't like the taste of this one. The blend of the bitter and the sweet and the mulled wine quality make for a slightly out of the ordinary flavour for a beer - this is no tasteless lager or characterless beer of the "smooth" or "cream flow" variety! It is smooth, tasty and warming, with a real taste of winter.

www.springhead.co.uk/

Andrea Waterhouse

This webpage was last updated on Sunday, 07 October 2007

 

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