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Beer with a bite!
From: InnSpire - Issue 64 – December 2006

York Brewery was started up (within the city walls) in 1996. As well as the usual brewery tours, visitors can choose between two shops - one at the brewery and one in front of the Yorkshire Terrier pub. The brewery has won a good few awards for their beers, which are readily available nationwide. Amongst their range, you will find Centurion’s Ghost (a dark and bitter beer at 5.4% ABV), Guzzler (a 3.6% light coloured session beer) and Wild Wheat (a dry wheat beer at 4.1%).

According to the guys at the brewery, the subject of this review really is named after a Yorkshire Terrier! The story goes that one of the original brewers used to take his pet to work, securing the lead to the Mash Tun until it was home time (or Health & Safety called!). The dog was loyal and patient, but eventually succumbed to old age. After its demise, though, the dog’s mischievous spirit reportedly visited the brewery each day. Strange things happened and people could ‘feel’ the presence of the little character around the place. Yorkshire Terrier is named in honour of this
loyal and lively companion!

Yorkshire Terrier weighs in at 4.2% ABV and is classed as a Best Bitter. It is a golden/light copper coloured beer; clear, crisp and bright, with a decent sized foamy white head that laces the glass nicely as you drink. Aroma is predominantly that of fruit and hops. The hops give it a rather zesty citrus scent, combining well with a slight spiciness, hints of orange and a faint apple tang. There is also an underlying sweetness, from the malt, reminiscent of digestive biscuits. Texture is slightly creamy and has a good smooth feel on the palate.

I think Yorkshire Terrier is a nice balanced Bitter with a good combination of flavours. It starts out quite malty, but this is soon replaced by the same citrus elements that were present in the aroma - the predominant tastes in this layer are lemon, grapefruit and a slight orange spiciness. This moves on to bitter hop flavours that become more evident, leading to a finish that is quite dry and an aftertaste that is quite long and with a slightly bitter earthiness. This is all balanced by an underlying flavour of resiny pine and a slight honey sweetness. It is a good and well-crafted example of this style of beer and does the brewery proud! There are a lot of flavour combinations present, producing a multi-layered beer that manages to be balanced rather than too ‘busy’ with taste. It also maintains the good dry bitterness that is so pleasant in a Best Bitter.

Yorkshire Terrier was tasty, light and had a good mouth-feel, whether drunk during the afternoon or evening. At lunchtime, the flavours were strong enough to be noticeable without overwhelming the taste of our meal - hard to achieve! The bitter finish also helped to wake up the taste buds. We tried Yorkshire Terrier in a couple of the York Brewery pubs and paid around £2.40 a pint - a pretty standard price these days. The quality was consistent and I would certainly recommend Yorkshire Terrier as a good light and hoppy Bitter. I think it would appeal to a wide range of palates (especially on a hot day) because the citrus flavours make it quite refreshing.

Look out for Yorkshire Terrier, and if you find it I hope you enjoy it as much as we did. It is classic Bitter from a top class brewery.

www.yorkbrew.demon.co.uk

Andrea Waterhouse

Sneeze-y Drinking!
From: InnSpire - Issue 63 – October 2006

Spire Brewery was set up by former schoolteacher and Scot’s Guard Bandsman David McLaren in spring 2006.  The brewery is based on the Ireland Business Park in Staveley and is housed in two industrial bays.  Inside the brewery buildings is a 10 barrel brewing plant and 6 handpumps, where brewery tours can be arranged.  At the moment Spire are brewing a range of beers including Chesterfield Best Bitter (a brown premium bitter at 4.8% ABV), Encore (a pale amber session beer at 3.8% ABV) and Land of Hop and Glory (a golden hoppy ale at 4.5% ABV).  Their beers can be found at selected pubs and are beginning to feature at Beer Festivals around the country ~ in fact Land of Hop and Glory has recently won Silver Medals at Peterborough Beer Festival in the Best Bitter and Beers from New Breweries categories.

Sgt. Pepper Stout is one of the latest beers to come from Spire Brewery and for me the most unique beer I have come across recently.  It weighs in at 5.5% ABV and is brewed using Northern Brewer and Fuggles hops, along with Maris Otter pale, Amber and Pale Chocolate malts.  Along with this, as the name suggests, freshly ground black pepper is also added during the brewing process.

Looks wise, this is a dark brown, almost black stout with a long lasting coffee coloured head.  Aroma is a mixture of roasted malt, hops and fruit, with a hint of caramel and a spicy pepperiness.  Texture is creamy and full bodied.  The taste is definitely peppery, but there’s a lot more to it than that!  The base flavour is roasted malt, blended with complex notes of liquorice, chocolate, hops and caramel.  The pepper isn’t as noticeable to begin with, but builds in intensity as the pint progresses.  This all leads to a bitter hop and malt finish and a long aftertaste that leaves a peppery tingle.

I really like Sgt. Pepper Stout and am pleased to have come across a beer that is original and tasty too.  The pepper flavour works well and is just strong enough to be noticeable without being too strong and overpowering.  It is a good example of a full bodied stout with that little bit extra ~ the pepper gives it and excellent bite!

I have recently tried Sgt. Pepper at a The Arkwright Arms Duckmanton and at The Industry Inn Newbold.  On both occasions it was roasty, peppery and full of character and taste.  Look out for at Beer Festivals and pubs near you.  A unique and well crafted stout that I wholeheartedly recommend!

For more information on Chesterfield’s newest microbrewery, visit Spire’s brand new website at www.spirebrewery.co.uk

Andrea Waterhouse

Soapy Beer?!
From: InnSpire - Issue 62 – August 2006

A recent holiday in the Yorkshire Dales saw us - not surprisingly - overdosing a little on Black Sheep Bitter and Theakston’s Old Peculier, which were on offer at virtually every bar. Guest beers on the handpumps were few & far between and often from these two local breweries! When we found Black Sheep Emmerdale at a Leyburn pub, I was more than happy to give it a try, as I had previously only seen it in bottles.

Masham’s [pronounced Masam] Black Sheep Brewery is a stone’s throw away from Theakston’s. It was set up by Paul Theakston after the family lost control following a take-over - although Theakston’s is, ironically, now back in the hands of the family! Brewing began in 1992 in a building that was the site of the old Lightfoot Brewery, which had been bought and closed by Theakstons in 1919. Black Sheep now runs a successful business, producing over 50,000 barrels of beer a year and has a foot in the tourist market. Their brewery tours, bistro, bar and ‘Sheepy Shop’ attract thousands of people annually and their beers can be found in pubs, clubs and shops nationwide.

Their beer range includes Riggwelter (dark and strong at 5.7% ABV), Black Sheep Bitter (a good standard bitter beer at 3.8%) and Black Sheep Ale (slightly stronger than the bitter at 4.4%). Black Sheep Bitter is the usual one to be found in cask form, but bottled versions of all the range can be found in most supermarkets and off-licences.

Emmerdale was originally launched in May 2003 on the set of the long-running TV soap by actor Patrick Mower (who plays Rodney Blackstock). The beer was a little stronger then, at 5% ABV. On January 27th this year, another Emmerdale cast member - Chris Chittel, long-standing character Eric Pollard - pulled the first pint of the new style Emmerdale Fine Dales Ale, at the Crown Inn, Manfield (the current CAMRA Yorkshire Pub of the Year). Black Sheep Brewery was using the occasion to re-launch two of their brands: Black Sheep Special was re-named Black Sheep Ale and Emmerdale was being lowered in gravity to 4.2% ABV. It was thought that this strength would make it more generally appealing and would sell better as a session beer than a strong ale.

The new 4.2% Emmerdale is brewed using Goldings hops, Maris Otter barley and demerara sugar. It is a light and bright golden/copper colour with a slightly off-white head. My pint was very sparkling in appearance and the head was quite short lived, leaving only a small amount of lacing on the glass.

The aroma was quite fruity, with hints of orange marmalade. This tartness combined well with the sweet smell of the sugar and the slight aroma of toast from the malt.
These scents were balanced by a citrus hoppiness. Texture was medium bodied, giving a pleasant creamy mouthfeel. I found that Emmerdale’s underlying flavours were quite dry and bitter. The initial sweetness combined with a bitter hoppiness and a good amount of toasted malt flavour. As you drink, a caramel/toffee taste comes through (again as a result of the malt), along with a rich fruitiness. This all leads to a finish that blends the bitter and the sweet and an after-taste that isn’t especially long, but leaves you with the citrusy bitterness of those Goldings hops.
Emmerdale isn’t my favourite beer in the Black Sheep range, but it does have an interesting blend of flavours, However these flavours, although meant to provide balance, don’t seem to work as well together as in some other beers. It is certainly tasty and I liked the marmalade elements, but it just seemed a little too sweet in places and a little too bitter in others. The balance wasn’t quite there - nearly, but not quite! I enjoyed the beer and went on to sample it elsewhere.

Although not one of my favourites, it was light, refreshing and pretty tasty - a beer to enjoy with food and one that can be quaffed rather than sipped - a good easy drinking beer and one for a summer’s day. I would certainly drink it again and would recommend it as a well-brewed and interesting beer.

Black Sheep Emmerdale isn’t as easy to find in the Branch area as it is in North Yorkshire, but it puts in a regular appearance at the Royal Oak, Millthorpe.
www.blacksheepbrewery.com 

Andrea Waterhouse

Bitter, not tart
From: InnSpire - Issue 61 – June 2006

Peak Ales originate from the Barn Brewery on the Chatsworth House estate, near Bakewell in Derbyshire. The first brew took place on February 1st 2005 - so they have really only been in business for a very short time in brewing terms, compared to like Fuller’s and Young’s, who have been going for a few hundred years [Hurry now while stocks last - Ed.

Brewing would have started earlier, but the intended site was home to a pair of Barn Owls, and things had to wait until the chicks had fledged! This new brewery combines a very modern-looking 10-barrel German brewing plant with traditional brewing methods.

So far Peak are only brewing a few beers (along with a couple of bottled ones) and these include Swift Nick (a pale golden Session beer at 3.8% ABV) and Dalesman (a 4% amber beer). Peak ales can be found at several pubs in Derbyshire and South Yorkshire, as well as at Beer Festivals nationwide. Their bottled beers can be found in the Chatsworth Farm shop. Brewer Rob Evans intended Bakewell Best Bitter to be a Best Bitter like the ones he used to drink. He went for the name to emphasize the situation and local heritage of the brewery, opting for simplicity rather than any fancy names: a no-nonsense title for a no-nonsense Best Bitter!

Bakewell Best weighs in at 4.2% ABV and is a true ‘Best Bitter’: having more malt and hops than a standard bitter, and tending to have dominant fruit and malt flavours, with an underlying hop bitterness. Bakewell Best is brewed using Crystal malt and a blend of English hops (Challenger, Fuggles and Goldings) to provide colour, aroma and flavour. Bakewell Best is golden amber/light copper with an off white head, which is quite small and leaves a similar amount of lacing on the side of the glass. The aroma is actually quite subtle, but I could detect a slight malt flavour (mainly giving a roasted edge) and a hint of fruit and citrus hops. Texture is dry and medium bodied, with a creamy mouthfeel.

Bakewell Best a good old-fashioned bitter beer! First taste yields a hint of caramel sweetness, but the dominant element is bitterness. There is a well-balanced base of malt (again the roastiness) and hoppiness (citrus mainly), leading to a dry and bitter finish. The aftertaste is quite astringent and reasonably long lasting. The flavours work well together and overall you get a refreshing and drinkable bitter beer. Of the beers brewed by Peak Ales, I think that Bakewell Best is my favourite. It is a great example of a British Best Bitter and has done what the brewer set out to do. What it lacks in multi-layered complexity, it makes up for in class and attention to detail. In an age where a lot of beers are brewed to taste of cherries, blackcurrants and elderflowers (and other things) it is quite refreshing to find beer that tastes of beer! A good beer brewed with top grade ingredients is a wonderful thing to come across!

I would recommend Bakewell Best to all Real Ale drinkers and to anyone who likes a no-nonsense drink. My last pint of the stuff (on special offer @ £1.80) was on St George’s Day at the Wellington, New Whittington, near Chesterfield. This was a real bargain, as around £2.20 seems to be the standard price for a beer of this strength locally.

All in all, a fine beer from a new brewery! It also feels good to be supporting a beer that is brewed locally. I can see this being a popular choice amongst tourists: the pumpclip shows Bakewell church and would certainly appeal to Peak District visitors. The fact that it tastes good is definitely a bonus, too!

Andrea Waterhouse

Simply the best
It's Mild Jim, but not as we know it!

From: InnSpire - Issue 60 – April 2006

As Mild Month is fast approaching I thought I would point you in the direction of an excellent Mild. While having a crawl around some of the Real Ale pubs in Sheffield we happened upon the Gardener’s Rest. Along with a selection of other Cask and gravity served beers they also stock a range of beers from the Timothy Taylor brewery. Some of their beers are really easy to find, but the Gardener's has one of my favourite, slightly less easy to get hold of brews ~ a light coloured Mild Ale called Timothy Taylor Golden Best.

Timothy Taylor & Co. are based in Keighley, West Yorkshire, in a brewery called Knowle Spring. They started up in Cook Lane (also in Keighley) in 1858 and moved to larges premises in 1863 ~ they have been here ever since. Since then they have been run by the same family and have fought to remain independent in this age of multi-national super breweries. Taylors use traditional methods, and spring water from the Pennines, to produce a range of award winning cask beers (and one bottled beer ~ Timothy Taylor Landlord).

Among the range of fine quality beers you will find Timothy Taylor Landlord (the famous beer enjoyed by Madonna at 4.3% ABV), Ram Tam (a dark winter beer also at 4.3% ABV) and Best Bitter (a classic Yorkshire bitter at 4% ABV). Although Landlord is the most commonly available of their range, some pubs do stock the others, especially in the Yorkshire and Derbyshire area.

I have written about Milds before and have used Golden Best as an example of a traditional yet unusual Mild. Generally Milds are classed as beers that brewed with less hops than bitter style beers. Usually they are lower in alcohol, light in body and are darker in colour (due to the use of darker coloured malts in the brewing process). Golden Best fits with the standard in that it is quite low in strength and is light in texture. It is, however, out of the ordinary because it is pale in colour. Golden Best weighs in at only 3.5% ABV and is therefore an excellent Session Beer.

You will probably have gathered by now that Golden Best is a pale coloured beer. I would actually say it is a light amber coloured beer (rather than gold as the name suggests) with a slight, short lived off-white head. It settles quickly to give a clear, bright beer that it visually pretty appealing. Aroma is a gentle mix of soft malt (slightly biscuity) and fruit (grapefruits predominantly). Texture is quite light bodied, but is smooth and creamy enough to avoid it having a watery feel that some low gravity beers seem to have. It is also quite a crisp and fresh feeling beer that is very easy to drink and enjoy.

Golden Best is actually quite a subtle beer. There are no huge rushes of flavours; instead there is a steady building of layers and tastes. It starts off with barley, then a surprising amount of hops (giving a grapefruit and orange citrus flavour), balanced out by the underlying biscuity base taste of malt. This all leads to a finish that combines a slightly floral sweetness and a refreshing hoppy bitterness. Aftertaste is not particularly long lasting, but is dry and bitter ~ refreshing the palate and making you want more.

As Milds go Golden Best is a tasty, if unusual, example of the style. It is light, refreshing and a good choice if you are wanting a beer that has flavour but isn't too strong. There are plenty of flavours present (however subtle they may be) and the effect they give is very well balanced and extremely classy. Even though it so light in texture and strength it manages to keep your attention for a whole pint (or four!) ~ no mean feat for a 3.5% beer!

Milds are generally seen as an unpopular beer style and are often called an "old man's drink"! I am really anxious to get people drinking this type of beer and am pleased to see a Mild that may tempt in the drinker. Golden Best is a great example of what a well brewed beer should be ~ good blend of tastes, easy to drink, refreshing and clean in texture. The hops are evident, but not too strong and the pale malts give it depth and balance…excellent!

I can't recommend Golden Best highly enough and advise you to give it a try if you see it. A drinkable, refreshing and moreish beer ~ one of the best Milds you are gonna get!  www.timothytaylor.co.uk

Andrea Waterhouse

Handy for Gandhi!
From: InnSpire - Issue 59 – February 2006

Thornbridge Hall Brewery is a relatively new business, which can be found in some former outbuildings, attached to Thornbridge Hall, in Ashford-in-the-Water, Derbyshire. The ‘Baby Brewery’, as it is known to its Kelham Island ‘parent’, uses both new equipment and some adapted kit from the old Malton Brewery.

As well as brewing some beers for Kelham Island, Thornbridge now brews a range of interesting and tasty beers. These include Blackthorn Ale (a moreish Pale Ale at 4.4% ABV), Lord Marples (an easy 4% drinking session Bitter) and Brock (a smooth, dark 4.1% Stout).

You will find their beers at selected pubs in the surrounding area and appearing at Beer Festivals nationwide.

Jaipur IPA is one of my favourite Thornbridge beers. The name comes from India: capital city of the Rajasthan state. It is known as the Pink City, because of the colour of some of the houses in the old town. What better name could you give an India Pale Ale than somewhere IN India?

Jaipur weighs in at 5.9% ABV and is a pale golden beer with a light coloured long-lasting head. Aroma is predominantly hoppy with a lemon and fruit citrus edge and a slight hint of freshly cut grass. Texture is slightly syrupy, but generally smooth and very pleasant to drink. It is a complex and well-balanced beer. It has a blend of fruit and citrus hop flavours, with a pleasant honey sweetness that doesn’t overpower. The flavours develop and become increasingly bitter, leading to a long, dry and bitter aftertaste.

Jaipur is a tasty and well-crafted IPA that has quickly made its mark with beer drinkers. It has already been crowned Overall Champion at Sheffield CAMRA Beer Festival, and was named Gold Medal Strong Ale at the Midland Beer Festival last year. It is far too easy to drink – I always find that one pint is never enough and that seems to be the case with other Real Ale drinkers, too.

I thoroughly recommend Jaipur as a good quality, highly (and dangerously) drinkable pale beer. It is strong enough to warm you on a cold day and refreshing enough for a hot summer’s evening – versatile AND tasty!

Andrea Waterhouse

This webpage was last updated on Sunday, 02 September 2007

 

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