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A Haunting Taste
From: InnSpire - Issue 46 – December 2003

In September we went to the excellent Beer Festival in the brewing town of Burton on Trent in Staffordshire. We went for the afternoon session and spent a leisurely afternoon sampling a large variety of interesting beers. The one that stood out (although I don’t think we had one we hated) was Centurion’s Ghost Ale, produced by the York Brewery, based (not surprisingly) in the old Roman city of York.

York brewery started production in 1996, becoming the first brewery in the city for around 40 years. It is a show brewery, which has a gift shop, bar and visitor centre – tours are available throughout the day from Monday to Friday and there’s ample opportunity to try a few ales. They now own two pubs; the Last Drop Inn and the Three-Legged Mare (the first purchased in 2000 and the second in 2001) and they have plans to buy another.

York supply their beers to approximately 400 pubs in and around the city and you can also find them at Beer Festivals around the country. Some York beers you may encounter include Yorkshire Terrier (4.2% ABV), York IPA (5% ABV) and Stonewall (3.7% ABV). If you do visit, you may get to see some of these being brewed from the viewing gallery.

Centurion’s Ghost Ale weighs in at 5.4% ABV and is available all year round. It was named after a local ghost story, popular around York, about a Roman soldier who haunts the ancient city. Centurion’s Ghost has won awards around the country; both in categories specifically for dark beers and in general – for example, it was awarded the Gold Medal in the Brewing Industry International Awards in 2002.

LLooks wise, it is a dark ruby red colour that almost resembles a porter or a mild. It is quite a dark beer; this comes from the dark roasted malt used in brewing. It is pretty full bodied, but doesn’t feel thick or syrupy in the mouth. The aroma is faintly chocolaty, mixed with a citrus element. Taste wise, Ghost is interesting too! Hops and fruit combine with a pleasant malty flavour, to produce a beer that has depth and richness. This initial maltiness gives way to a slight spiciness and a finish that is quite bitter, but this leads to a short aftertaste that is malty and slightly sweet. The aftertaste lingers just long enough for you to get another pint!

We tried our Centurion’s Ghost at the Burton on Trent beer festival and paid £2.00 for a pint (it was actually sold in halves but as one half was £1.00, you can see where my price comes from). If you go on one of their brewery tours though, you may even get a free taste!

I have since tried it at The Portland Hotel, where we paid the standard Wetherspoon’s Guest Ale price (which was £1.35 a pint at the time) and at The Derby Tup, where it cost us £2.10 a pint ~ just shows how beer prices vary from place to place!

I thoroughly recommend Centurion’s Ghost! It is tasty, looks appealing and has a nice story to go behind its name. Just bear in mind that it is quite a strong beer – you may forget when you are drinking it because of its lovely fruit and malt flavour!  www.yorkbrew.co.uk

Andrea Waterhouse

Raven about Ale!
From: InnSpire - Issue 45 – October 2003

The Orkney Brewery is based in the Isles of Orkney, just off the Northern tip of Scotland, in an old Schoolhouse. Brewing started there in 1988 (by Roger and Irene White) and since then they have produced an excellent range of bottled and cask Real Ales. They export to the mainland and also to other countries around the world (apparently they do a roaring trade in the USA!).

They have won various awards for their fine products, including medals at the Brewing Industry International Awards 2002, Champion Winter Beer of Britain 2001 and Champion Beer of Scotland 2000.  Some of their other beers you may come across include Skullsplitter (an absolute beast of a beer at 8.5%), Dragonhead Stout (a gorgeous dark beer at 4%) and Dark Island (a ruby red beer at 4.6%)

Raven Ale weighs in at 3.8% ABV and is made using malted barley, hops and water. Looks wise it is a pale golden colour with a little hint of orange; it actually has an appearance not unlike that of a Pale Ale. The aroma is pretty hoppy, with a hint of citrus and a floral tinge. The texture in your mouth is light and lively; very refreshing and smooth too. There’s also a little bit of spiciness in there that makes your tongue tingle!

It would go down really well with food too, because it isn’t too overpowering and wouldn’t dominate the taste of your meal. There is enough flavour and interest in there to make it good to drink on its own too!

Taste wise Raven is quite a complicated little number. It is rich, fruity and has a tastiness that is perhaps unusual in a “session” beer of this relatively low strength ~ it is quite easy to think that this is a stronger beer than it actually is. The initial flavour is lemony (from the hops) and this is balanced by a pleasant light maltiness (I have heard from my brother, who lived in Scotland for many years, that it used to be very malty, but has since mellowed into a much better beer).

It can have the tendency to be a little on the dry side, but this is cut through nicely by the other flavours ~ fruity and buttery. The finish is refreshing and light, leading to a citrus after-taste that lingers smoothly in your mouth. Altogether, a well balanced and tasty beer that is well worth a try.

I first tried my Raven Ale at our Beer Festival last year, but I have since tried it at a Wetherspoons pub as a guest beer, but you should generally expect to pay between £1.80 and £2.00 a pint. I have only seen this on rare occasions as a guest beer, and I mean only on RARE occasions! The other Orkney beers seem to pop up more often than Raven ale; more’s the pity! The up side is that you can buy 500ml bottles online ~ from this link  for around £30 for 12 bottles.

If you do see it in your local then I thoroughly recommend that you sample some ~ it’s tasty, easy to drink and makes an excellent choice for an afternoon or evening drinking session.

Andrea Waterhouse

How to Get Bladdered!
From: InnSpire - Issue 44 – August 2003

Every now and again a beer comes along that intrigues me. Kelpie Organic Seaweed Ale is definitely one of these beers. The name is certainly interesting, but so is the concept and the beer itself! Don’t be put off by the unusual name and don’t be frightened of the fact that seaweed is a part of the brew ~ Kelpie Organic Seaweed Ale may sound odd, but it really is rather good indeed! Rest assured that Kelpie may contain seaweed, but it definitely doesn’t TASTE of it.

Kelpie is the name given to the creatures that, according to legend, live in the Lochs of Scotland ~ Nessie is the most famous of these. The picture on the pump clip (and bottle label) of Kelpie Organic Seaweed Ale is actually the Pictish symbol for one of these mythical beasts. The beer itself REALLY is brewed using seaweed (bladder wrack to be precise) that is harvested, usually in the spring, from off the Argyll Coast.

Heather Ales and Craigmill Brewery Ltd can be found in an old 18th Century Watermill. The owners (Bruce and Scott Williams) used to own a homebrew shop in Glasgow and eventually opened a brewery of their own ~ they had found some ancient Scottish brewing recipes and wanted to try them out. The company now brews at two sites; one is at Strathaven (where the bottled beers are produced) and the other is the Craigmill Brewery (where the Cask beers are brewed). They are renowned for producing unusual and interesting beers using local Scottish ingredients. Their beers are also based on traditional recipes. These include Fraoch Heather Ale (4.1% ABV as a Cask Ale) which is brewed using Heather (Fraoch is Gaelic for Heather), Ebulum (6.5% ABV) which contains blackberries, and Grozet (4.5% ABV) which is brewed with gooseberries (Groseid is the Gaelic for Gooseberry).

Kelpie weighs in at 4.4% ABV and, as well as the seaweed, is brewed using organic barley and malt, to recreate an old style dark Scottish beer. Up to the 1850’s many Scottish ale houses along the coast brewed their beers using barley fertilised with seaweed. This gave the beer a distinct flavour that Kelpie aims to recreate. Looks wise, Kelpie is a very dark, almost black beer that takes on a slightly chocolate brown hue when held up to the light.

The cream coloured head is slightly foamy, but quite lacy and not very long lasting. The closest comparison I can give you is a cross between a stout and a brown ale ~ the taste and texture is a little stout-like too.  The aroma is pretty strong, but not unpleasant. There is a slightly salty scent (reminiscent of sea air perhaps), but not fishy like I was expecting something associated with the sea to be. There is a whiff of coffee, a hint of chocolate and a pleasant roasted maltiness too. The final smell I got was quite earthy ~ it smells like it tastes; robust and unusual!

Taste wise, Kelpie is rather interesting too. It is the rich chocolate flavour that dominates the brew, balanced out by roasted malt and a light hoppiness. The flavour develops a slight sweetness, giving way to a finish that is slightly salty. The after taste combines all these unusual elements, leaving you with a fresh and crisp flavour. It is certainly an unusual beer and quite an acquired taste, but once you have acquired it Kelpie is very moreish indeed. Kelpie is available as a cask ale and in bottles (not bottle conditioned unfortunately). You can always get some from the Heather Ales web-site www.fraoch.com.

I certainly recommend that you give Kelpie a try if you see it on your travels. It wasn’t what I was expecting but it was definitely a welcome surprise!

Andrea Waterhouse

A Mild (G)ale
From: InnSpire - Issue 43 – June 2003

George Gale & Co Ltd dates back to 1847; when Richard Gale purchased a brewery and an adjoining pub (called The Ship Inn). The business was expanded by Richard’s son George and, following a major fire in 1869, the brewery was rebuilt.  The Bowyer family bought a major share in the brewery in 1896 and they have stayed at the helm ever since. If you want to know more about the brewery’s history then you can either visit the web-site at this address.  http://www.gales.co.uk  or there is a book available too (details also available via the web-site).

Gales Brewery supply 111 tied houses (all of which serve Cask Ales) and also provide beer to around 650 free trade outlets. Some of their beers you may come across include Frolic Bitter (4.4% ABV ~ a tasty beer served around Easter), HSB (4.8% ABV ~ a full-bodied bitter) and Winter Brew (4.2% ABV ~ a winter beer in the style of an Old Ale).

Festival Mild was first created by Gales back in 1990 to support CAMRA’s campaign to restore Mild as a style of beer. It was called Festival because it made its first appearance at a Beer Festival, but it was so popular that it became a regular fixture. It has won many awards at Beer Festivals around the country so I was really looking forward to trying it. It’s available as a Cask Beer and also in bottles; it was advertised at Tesco, but I have yet to have the pleasure!
Festival Mild weighs in at 4.8% ABV and is brewed using Maris Otter pale ale malt, black malt and crystal malt, along with a blend of Goldings, Challenger and Fuggles hops. At 4.8% it is one of the stronger Milds on the market and challenges the assumption that all Milds are low in alcohol content and taste. Looks wise, Festival Mild is almost black with a faint hint of copper and a thin but pretty long lasting head. You will find the aroma stronger than most Milds ~ roasted malt, fruit and a light spiciness mix with a faint hoppiness. The texture is smooth and rich, but quite thin bodied. 

The flavour of Festival Mild is predominantly fruity.  The initial taste that I noticed was blackcurrants and raisins, but this was nicely balanced out by hints of chocolate, caramel and a soft taste of roasted malt. I could also taste raspberries in there along with what I can only describe as liquorice. There is a faint tang of bitterness in the finish, but the aftertaste leaves
you with a pleasant sweetness. It is pretty refreshing and all the tastes seem to linger nicely…at least long enough for me to send someone to the bar for a refill!  We first encountered Festival Mild at The Hay at Shirland on Mild Day this year. It cost us £1.90 a pint
and we really enjoyed it. I’ve since seen it down at The Portland Hotel in Chesterfield (where it was available as a “Try Before you Buy” Guest Beer) and plenty of people seemed to be drinking it. If you see Festival Mild at a pub near you I would recommend you give it a try because it was even enjoyed by the drinkers who normally didn’t go for a Mild.

I’m not doing myself any favours here because they’ll be less left for me if I tell everyone to have some! Hands off…it’s mine!  If you have any comments, or suggestions for beers or pubs to try, email me at a.d.waterhouse@btinternet.com

Andrea Waterhouse

X-cellent B-eer!
From: InnSpire - Issue 42 – April 2003

Bateman’s Brewery is based in Wainfleet, Lincolnshire; just down the A52 from Skegness. It is a small independent business that was set up, back in 1874, by farmer George Bateman and his wife Suzanna. The present chairman, also called George, is the founder’s grandson; keeping Bateman’s as a family concern, despite threats of buy-outs from larger companies.

Bateman’s produce a variety of good quality beers and are respected producers of cask ales. George Bateman & Son Ltd own around 60 pubs and also supply bottled and cask beers nationwide ~ they even had the concession to supply beer to Skegness Butlins! They brew regular, seasonal and speciality beers; these include the wickedly named Miss Whiplash (4.2% ABV), the dark and rich Salem Porter (4.7% ABV) and the wonderfully flavoursome Dark Mild (3% ABV).

Bateman’s XB weighs in at 3.7% ABV and is brewed using Challenger, Goldings and Liberty hops. The relatively modest alcohol content makes it an ideal strength for a session ale too. Looks wise, it is a light to mid-brown colour, with a slight golden tinge when held to the light. The head is a light cream hue; it is quite tight and lasted throughout the pint. The texture of the beer is slightly on the fizzy side, but it is still pleasant and very easy to drink.

XB is quite a hoppy beer so, not surprisingly, the predominant aroma is that of hops. There is a little maltiness along with a little lemony fruitiness lurking in there. Taste wise, XB isn’t one of those beers that you speak of with flowery language and poetic metaphors: It is a good, typical bitter, not something to wax lyrical about!

I suppose the main point is that XB is refreshing, tasty and well balanced. The hoppy element could have a tendency to dominate but, due to an underlying maltiness and a pleasant warming sensation, this doesn’t happen. What you get is an interesting balance of hops, malt and fruit. There is a nice refreshing and bitter flavour in the finish, leading to a warm lingering after taste that tempts you to drink more (so we did!).

We sampled our XB down at the Rugby Club on Stonegravels in Chesterfield; a great place to get good reasonably priced beers. They usually have a couple of guest beers on offer, the atmosphere is relaxed and the staff are friendly. The location and the excellent Bateman’s XB added to our enjoyment of our Charity Quiz night. Our pints (of which we had a few) cost us £1.75 each ~ a thoroughly drinkable ale at a reasonable price! It went well with our steak and red wine pies too because its flavour didn’t drown out the taste of the food.

I would definitely recommend Bateman’s XB as an easy drinking and pleasant bitter that can be enjoyed at any time of year… and at £1.75 a pint it didn’t break the bank either.

If you have any comments, or suggestions for beers or pubs to try, email me at a.d.waterhouse@btinternet.com

Andrea Waterhouse

Fisherman’s Friend
From: InnSpire - Issue 41 – February 2003

Adnams Brewery was formed way back in 1872, when Ernest & George Adnams took over an existing brewery in the Suffolk town of Southwold. There has actually been brewing taking place on the site since the early half of the fourteenth century (in fact it has been traced back to 1345), so it was a good place to start a business. They were joined by the Loftus family in 1902 and have continued to produce some interesting and varied cask ales. Some Adnams beers you may have come across include the Bitter (3.7 % ABV), Broadside (4.7 % ABV) and Regatta (4.3 % ABV). I’ve tried the Bitter and the Broadside before and was impressed, so I was expecting good things from my pint of Fisherman.

Adnams Fisherman weighs in at 4.3 % ABV and was originally produced to replace two of their existing brands ~ their Old Ale and Oyster Stout. In effect it is essentially a combination of these two styles. It is made (according to the manufacturers) using Maris Otter pale malt, Rye Crystal malt, chocolate malt and Goldings hops. These ingredients, along with Chocolate and Pinhead oats, combine to give and interesting, rich and full-bodied beer.

Looks wise, it is a rather deep red in colour; almost like burnished copper. It settled quickly and, when held up to the light, it took on a slightly lighter clear copper hue. The aroma is distinctly hoppy, with a nutty scent from the roasted malt coming through. This mixes nicely with a faint chocolaty fragrance and a little whiff of spice.  This combination actually reminds me of winter and the festive season.

Taste wise, Fisherman is rather complex too. It’s a little difficult to allot it to one particular style of beer; it has the body, smoothness and character of a stout, and yet it retains the hoppy, refreshing and easy to drink quality of a bitter. The initial flavour I got was a repeat of the malty nuttiness present in the smell. This gave way to a slight bitter sweetness, rather like sucking a square of dark chocolate. There is a little hint of spiciness too that warms you up rather nicely. All this, together with a lovely combination of nuts, fruit and a little bit of liquorice thrown in gives you a cracking flavour.

The finish also has these elements of chocolate, malt and hops. It has a complexity that is befitting of a full-bodied and character filled brew such as this. The bitterness of the beer becomes to come through more strongly towards the end, leading to a refreshing aftertaste and that subtle spiciness that leave your mouth feeling warm. The smoothness of the beer is also pleasant on the palate. Fisherman leaves you feeling warm, cosy and definitely wanting to get straight to the bar for another pint! That’s perhaps the only trouble; it is perhaps a little TOO easy to drink.

Adnams Fisherman is unfortunately only available from October until the end of February. This is a real pity because I would be happy to drink it at any time of year; although essentially a winter brew it is refreshing enough to warrant a regular slot. Ours cost us £2.00 for a pint; the standard price for one of the Guest Ales at The Market Hotel. I consider this  to be a fair price for a good and tasty beer ~ of course, I’d love to pay less, but this isn’t going to happen and I have paid the same price for distinctly average beers in the past. We had a few pints each that Wednesday night and thoroughly enjoyed them all. I’ll certainly be looking out for Adnams Fisherman again in the future and I recommend that you do the same…but time is running out this year, so be quick!

If you have any comments, or suggestions for beers or pubs to try, email me here

Andrea Waterhouse

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