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Pubs In and Around Cromford

The original settlement of ‘Crunforde’ (meaning crooked ford) was by the River Derwent, in the area now known as Cromford Bridge, where the church can still be found. Cromford is well worth the effort of a visit, especially if you look beyond the main street and discover the parts that existed before a certain Richard Arkwright arrived. Whilst on the face of it the grandly named ‘Derwent Valley Mills World Heritage Site’ is his legacy to the area, Arkwright, and his successors, have also had influence over the history of a number of Cromford pubs, past and present.

Bell Inn : The Bell (pictured) was one of two pubs that stood on either side of North Street at its junction with Cromford Hill (the Cock Inn being the other). Richard Arkwright built the street in 1776-7 to house mill workers although it is not clear if the pubs opened around this time. It is said that Arkwright encouraged his workers (and their children) to drink beer rather than the local water supply as the latter suffered from lead contamination. The earliest known landlord (1828), James Gell, was also a maltster and it is possible that he brewed beer on the premises. The pub is now part of the Hardys & Hansons estate and is a fine example of a traditional Derbyshire local, with two cask-conditioned beers available.

Boat Inn : Situated on Scarthin near to the mill pond, the Boat Inn was built about 1772 as a flour merchants business, although some bits of the building are said to be older. By the early 1830s it was being used as a beerhouse, known as the New Inn. The first known landlord, Anthony Boden, was also a butcher. Later the name changed to the Hit or Miss, possibly a reference to inconsistent beer quality? At an auction in September 1865 the pub was described as a ‘freehold beer-house and dwelling-house at Scarthen Row recently called “Hit or Miss” and now called “The Boat”, comprising … brewhouse, slaughterhouse …’ It belonged to William Allen who had changed the name of the beerhouse since he was a boatman on the Cromford Canal. Granted a full licence in 1954 and one of three remaining pubs in Cromford, this freehouse offers an excellent selection of real ales, many from local independent breweries.

Bull’s Head : Scarthin was well populated in the 18th and 19th centuries and was able to support the Bull’s Head and two beerhouses (see the Boat and Wheatsheaf). The Bull’s Head was the oldest of these, as confirmed by Trade Directory records and also by the fact that it held a full licence (beerhouse licences were only available from 1830 onwards). The pub, now demolished, stood at the bottom (Market Place) end of Scarthin. Whilst the exact date of closure is unknown, the pub ceased being mentioned in records in the 1880s.

Cock Inn : Situated on North Street at the opposite corner to the Bell and now a private residence (43 & 45 Cromford Hill), the Cock Inn (pictured) was one of five Cromford pubs included in an 1828 Trade Directory. The earliest known landlord, John Mart, was also listed as a carrier (1828) and a farmer (1860). From the information available, it appears that the premises were used as a tea room after the licence was surrendered in 1893. This is supported by a postcard, dated about 1910, which shows a refreshment room sign outside the building.

Crown Inn : The Crown (pictured) was recorded as a public house in trade directories for the period 1828-1842 although the exact date and reason for closing are not known. Situated towards the bottom of Cromford Hill between ‘Cromford Newsagents’ and ‘Janets’, the premises were subsequently used as a butcher’s and then a shop called ‘Collectors’ Corner’. The building is now a private residence.

George and Dragon : A beerhouse situated at Cromford Bridge, the George and Dragon was only listed in 1835 & 1842.

Greyhound Hotel : Originally called the Black Greyhound and built as a hotel in 1778 by Richard Arkwright to house businessmen and other visitors to Cromford, the Greyhound provided a focal point for village activities although it is said that mill workers were not allowed inside it. The pub has also been known locally as the ‘Black Dog’ and in an 1828 Trade Directory, it was described as a commercial inn and coach house.  Edward Bradbury (1880), describing a journey on the Cromford & High Peak Railway, wrote that ‘…and “The Greyhound” at Cromford is eloquent of a refreshing bath, and of a well-cooked dish of plump trout that were rising at flies in the cool Derwent an hour ago.’ Matthew Hill, of the Cromford Brewery was the proprietor for some years before the brewery relocated to Cromford Mill (brewing ceased in 1914). The hotel still stands in Cromford market place and, when last checked, was offering real ale.

Junction Inn : The Junction Inn was a public house in the vicinity of Lea Mills, that existed for about 40 years. Owned by the Arkwright family, it was first listed in an 1846 Trade Directory as a pub/inn, the first known landlord being Samuel Brown. The final listing that has been discovered was in 1881, when the landlord was James Brown. The ‘Junction’ name originates from the pub’s location at High Peak Junction, approximately one mile south east of Cromford Village on the A6. It was here that the Cromford & High Peak Railway (completed in 1831) had its original terminus and it was also the point where it met up with the Cromford Canal, enabling goods to be transported from canal to railway and vice versa. The pub was situated on a thin strip of land between the canal and the Midland Railway. In the 1880s the Midland Railway Company decided to straighten the track in the High Peak Junction area and, to achieve this, the pub was demolished.

King’s Head : The King’s Head, described as a three-storey Georgian Inn, stood at the side of Masson Mill. The inn was listed in the earliest trade directory for the area (1828) and was last recorded as open in 1857. By 1862 it was stated as being empty and subsequently became a private house until it was demolished in the 1970s to allow the A6 to be widened.

Railway Inn : The Railway Inn was situated in the area known as Steeple Houses at the top of Cromford Hill. At this point the bridge that carried the Cromford & High Peak Railway (C&HPR) across the Wirksworth road can still be found. The building next to it at the junction of Steeple Grange and Oakerthorpe Road was once the Railway Inn, just inside Wirksworth parish.  Originally known as the Cromford & High Peak Railway Inn, and thought to have been built by the Arkwright family, the pub was recorded as being open as early as 1828, before the C&HPR was operational. For many years in the 19th century it was in the hands of the Howsley (also spelt Houseley) family who were also farmers. Whilst the exact date and reason for closure are not known, the pub was no longer open by the early 1920s.

Red Lion : The Red Lion (pictured) was only open for around 30 years in the middle of the 19th century. The only known landlord, George Eaton, was also a farmer. The building, now a private house, is situated half way up Cromford Hill.

Rutland Arms : The Rutland Arms, a mill workers pub first recorded in 1842, stood in a terraced row directly opposite Masson Mill. It was demolished, along with adjacent housing, to allow the A6 to be widened in the 1970s. The last known landlord, Ossie Whittaker, also supplied bottled ale for the weekly dances in the Pavilion at Matlock Bath. One local drinker recalls that the pub had a pinball machine in the 1960s and there was a small prize (e.g. a packet of cigarettes) for the highest score of the day.

Wheatsheaf : According to the history board in the Boat Inn, a beerhouse known as the Wheatsheaf was situated at Scarthin (along with the Bull’s Head) and in 1841 was kept by Matthew Beastall. It is not known when it closed.

Un-named pub/beerhouse : It is thought that there may have been a pub or beerhouse on Cromford Hill at its junction with Bakers Lane. No further details are known.

The Arkwright Society’s main aim is to restore Cromford Mill to full working condition and they offer tours around the mill. A tour of historic Cromford is also available (the 18th century prison cells in particular are not to be missed!) They can be contacted at The Visitor Services Department, Cromford Mill, Cromford, Derbyshire, DE24 3RQ. Tel: 01629 823256. The website is currently under construction - www.arkwrightsociety.org.uk

This article could not have been written without the help of the following; Glynn Waite and Doreen Buxton kindly provided personal notes, and Martyn Gillie of the Arkwright Society helped locate many of the ex-pubs. Finally Andy Pollock and Robin Jeffcoat from the Middleton Top Visitor’s Centre, High Peak Trail provided information on the location of the Junction Inn. 

Jim McIntosh

Pubs In and Around Marsh Lane
From: InnSpire - Issue 44 – August 2003

Marsh Lane was probably little more than a collection of farms and small holdings until the late 18th C. Its importance always lagged behind its near neighbours such as Eckington, Troway and Ridgeway, which all had industries such as scythe and sickle making to bring greater prosperity. However the construction of the Eckington to Coal Aston turnpike in the 1790s brought with it the need to service the requirements of travellers.  Alongside a growing population, this resulted in a total of four pubs and beerhouses opening by the mid-1860s. Only two now remain as a result of the recent, and unnecessary, closure and demolition of the George Inn on Lightwood Road. This was NOT the NEDDC Planning Department’s finest hour. However this section ought to end on a positive note, achieved by giving a special mention to Eric & Ann Harrison who kept the George as an excellent pub in the 1990s, serving many wonderful beers and providing memorable nights for all.

Butchers’ Arms : The first evidence of the Butcher’s Arms (and the source of the pub’s name) is as an un-named beerhouse listed in 1833. The licensee, Charles Booth, was also listed as a butcher. For many years Brampton Brewery owned the pub.

Fox & Hounds : First listed in an 1833 Trade Directory when the victualler was Luke White. It is thought that the building was originally farm cottages and that the pub was created from the conversion of two cottages in the late 18th /early 19th century (two former doorways are visible at the front of the property). This could have occurred in the 1790s when the turnpike road linking Eckington and Coal Aston was constructed. To attract passing trade from the turnpike road, the pub had small safes built into a wall where travellers could keep their valuables. Both Chesterfield and Mansfield Breweries have owned and in April 1989 it was sold to current owners, Burtonwood Brewery. The pub was extended after the Second World War (still visible from the outside) and the most  recent alterations took place in 2000 when the pub underwent a £250,000 refurbishment.

George : Opened in the 1850s and situated on Lightwood Road. Originally a Worksop & Retford Brewery were owners, but by the 1990s it had become a popular free house and a regular entry in CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide. The fortunes of the pub then took a downturn and planning permission was requested for the pub to be replaced by a housing development, initially in late 2002. The George Inn closed its doors for the last time on Sunday 24 November 2002 and with the necessary planning permission finally obtained in April 2003, the pub was demolished in May 2003. George IV, who reigned 1820-30, was depicted on the last signboard.

Prince of Wales : A beerhouse that was situated at 54 Lightwood Road (just along from the George), and is thought to have originally brewed its own beer. Later on it was owned or leased by Sheffield Brewery, famous for ‘Matchless Ales’ and, following a takeover in 1955, by Tennant Brothers’ Brewery of Sheffield. A notable statistic from the pub’s history is that the licensees for the whole of the period 1862-1921 were both called William Ridgeway, and were father and son. As well as running the beerhouse, William senior also worked as a coal miner in order to keep his wife and four children plus a house servant. After closure around 1960, the premises stood derelict for several years until sold by auction in 1971 as a private residence.  Fortunately photographic evidence of the Prince of Wales remains – in particular a Harvest Festival scene featuring landlord and landlady Fred and Annie Rollins, and their daughter Mary.  The external shot was taken in April 1966 when the property was derelict.

Turning to the source of the name, the Prince of Wales opened in the early 1860s and, like many pubs that opened around this time, was named after the hugely popular Edward, Prince of Wales. He eventually became Edward VII in 1901 on the death of Queen Victoria and reigned until his own death in 1910.

Two other pubs have historically been included in the Marsh Lane district for licensing purposes:

Phoenix, High Lane : Still open, and originally near to the works of T.J. Hutton, who exported scythes and sickles all over the world. The works, which opened in 1822, eventually became known as the Phoenix Scythe works and the pub may have opened about the same time to get the custom of the 20 people employed there. It may have taken  a while for sufficient trade to be built up as a landlord in the 1820s, Robert Turner, was also a carpenter. Brewery owners have included John Smiths and Sheffield Free Brewery.

Bridge Inn, Ford : Became licensed premises in the 1840s (a beerhouse is listed in Trade Directories at Ford as early as 1842, the licensee being Isaac Guest). In 1849 Isaac Guest was still at the pub, which now had a full licence (rather than the more easily obtainable beerhouse licence). Brewery owners have included A H Smith and Tennants. An engraved stone built into the front wall of the pub states ‘The Land Tax of all the Buildings belonging to J Hutton in this Parish is redeemed 1823’. The Hutton’s were a Ridgeway family with scythe-making interests and may have owned the Bridge before it was an inn.

The pub is well situated for exploring the nearby woods, in which can be found the restored ‘Seldom Seen Engine House’. The Engine House is thought to have been built between 1855 and 1875 and once housed a massive winding wheel for Plumbley Colliery.  The Penny Engine Railway (so named because the fare was one old penny) ran from here to Renishaw.

Jim McIntosh

Pubs In and Around Brimington
From: InnSpire - Issue 42 – April 2003

Situated two miles to the north east of Chesterfield, the development of Brimington’s inns and pubs has been influenced by its transport links. Early travellers used the stagecoaches to and from Gainsborough and Manchester that passed through the village whilst the Chesterfield Canal, built in the late 1770s, passes nearby. Two further events occurred in 1841 when Brimington Common was enclosed and the road to Calow surveyed. Many of the pubs built to serve these travellers have survived into the 21st century, the grandfather of them all being the Three Horseshoes, a coaching inn that can be dated back to the 18th century.

Ark Tavern
Originally a Wesleyan Methodist Chapel built in 1808 (the date is engraved in a stone in one of the gable ends). The premises were converted to a beerhouse, owned by Tennant Brothers’ Brewery of Sheffield. The building’s previous use could be the source of the ‘Ark Tavern’ name with its religious link.

Brickmakers’ Arms
A Stones pub that opened as a beerhouse in the 1860s.

Bugle Horn
A coaching inn that dates back to the 18th century, it was one of only two pubs in Brimington in 1828. At that time it was run by John & Mary Greaves who had been licensees
since the early 1800s. The pub was situated on Hall Road and closed in 1927, whilst owned by Chesterfield Brewery, and the licence transferred to the Hollingwood Hotel. After closure the premises were converted to a private dwelling house before being demolished. Brimington Clinic now occupies the site.

The picture shows a group photograph taken 1910-14 outside the Bugle Horn, courtesy of Mr. A.P. Harrison and the Local Studies section, Chesterfield Library.

Butchers’ Arms
First listed in 1852. The name is derived from the fact the first known licensee, William Siddall,
was also a butcher. The pub was originally a Richdales’ House and via takeovers ownership passed in turn to Hammonds, Northern United Breweries and Bass Charrington.

Canal Tavern
A beerhouse found next to the Chesterfield Canal (north bank), at the side of Staveley Works. When it closed in 1963, the Derbyshire Times faithfully recorded the event. It was reported that this ‘halfforgotten’ pub was due to close on 4 April and was then to be demolished. The landlord at that time was a Mr. Alfred Ernest Crane. The pub, which sold Gilmours Brewery beers, also had stabling for four horses and these were no doubt used when boatmen rested at the Tavern for the night. In terms of location, Staveley Works was said to be ‘in the pub’s backyard’ and the pub came right up to the edge of the canal.

Corner House
Converted from a shop and opened in July 1998.

Markham Arms
William Stones pub that opened in 1957. Hidden away on Dorset Drive, New Brimington.

Mill
Previously known as the New Inn (until 1903/4) and Great Central (until 1991), situated next to the Chesterfield Canal. A gruesome murder occurred near to the pub in March 1886. The victim was Mr. Herbert Crookes, a businessman who lived near Cutthorpe.  On the night in question, Mr. Crookes was heading home along the canal towpath from Clowne. A boy at ‘the nearby New Inn’ heard screams about 11.30pm.  Whilst it is known that robbery was the motive for the attack, the murderers were never caught.

Miners’ Arms
First mentioned in Trade Directories in 1857 as a beerhouse run by William Salmon and situated at Brimington Common. By 1864, it held a full licence, with Salmon still as licensee.  The pub’s 20th century history includes being owned by the Chesterfield Brewery until taken over by Mansfield Brewery in 1935, which in turn sold it to Burtonwood Brewery in 1989.

Prince of Wales
Opened in the 1860s as a beerhouse and originally sold Scarsdale Brewery beers. The pub has changed name three times. The first change came in the late 1960s/early 1970s when it became known as the Brimington Tavern. Then in the late 1970s, a further change was made and the pub became known as ‘The Warren’, until another owner finally saw some sense and reverted back to its original name in 1984. Now an outlet for Oakwell Brewery beers from Barnsley.

Red Lion
The second oldest surviving pub in Brimington, having first been listed in 1835. Ex-Chesterfield Brewery.

Three Horseshoes
The oldest surviving pub in Brimington, it can be traced back to the 18th century using licensing records. Brewery ties have included Chesterfield and Mansfield Breweries. It was originally a coaching inn, a fact confirmed by the ‘Three Horseshoes’ name that has long
been associated with coaching inns. In his book, ‘British Inn Signs’, author Eric Delderfield offers the following explanation:  “Inns bearing the sign of THREE HORSESHOES are numerous and more often than not they are to be found after a long stretch of road without habitation. Probably the inn grew up as a neighbour to a blacksmith, who could always find business in replacing a missing shoe”.

Victoria Hotel
Situated on King Street. Renewal of its licence was refused in 1869 when the licensee was George Steel. 

Getting There – Frequent buses from Chesterfield using the following services - 17, 47, 70, 72 & 77.

References – ‘A history of Brimington from the Domesday Survey to 1937’ – Vernon Brelford & ‘Brimington – the changing face of a Derbyshire village – Brimington Parish Council. Thanks to John Hirst for supplying additional pub information.

Jim McIntosh

Troway
From: InnSpire - Issue 41 – February 2003

Troway (meaning either ‘the trough’ or ‘valley road’) lies just beyond Marsh Lane, near Eckington in the Moss Valley. It is a wonderful place for nature and walking, and is possibly North East Derbyshire’s best kept secret. From the 15th to the 19th century the area was famed for scythe and sickle production but the dams and mill wheels are now abandoned or gone. In their place, most of the land is used for agriculture and it is easy to forget that the hamlet is little more than six miles from Sheffield.

The oldest pub in the area is now known as the Black-a-Moor although this is a derivation of the pub’s original name, the Blackmoor’s Head (from a 19th century Trade Directory). The name is said to have originated from the time of the crusades in the 11th and 12th centuries when coloured men were regarded as infidel, barbaric and cruel and the Turks or ‘moors’ were regarded as the enemies of Christianity. This is a more likely source of the name rather than the pub’s proximity to ‘Moortop farm’. Indeed the pub’s signboard used to show a dark moorland scene that probably added to the confusion.

No documentary evidence came to light during research to confirm how old the pub may be. However there has been an alehouse on the site for several hundred years. It is known that the original premises, which were demolished in the 1930s, stood at right angles to the current building (facing the road down to Troway). Unfortunately no photograph of the original premises has been unearthed to date (we would be interested to see one if anyone can supply such a picture). The first known landlord was John Boot (1828). A long standing 20th century landlord was Ernest Whitworth.

The pub was rebuilt in the 1930s by William Stones brewery in mock Tudor fashion. Indeed it was one of three Stones pubs locally built at the same time in this style (the other two being the Mason’s Arms on Cemetery Road, Dronfield and the Hearts of Oak, Northern Common, Dronfield Woodhouse (pictured). The pub is now owned by Enterprise Inns and is well worth a visit for its two (three at weekends) well-kept real ales and its summer beer festival.

The Black-a-Moor’s unusual position, apparently in the middle of nowhere, may be explained by the fact that an old trackway passed by it, one of a number in the area. These track ways formed the transport network before the nearby turnpike road was built, allowing people, animals and goods to be moved. When the pub was rebuilt in the 1930’s, it said that it was in anticipation of housing development in the surrounding area that never subsequently went ahead.

The other pub in the area is the Gate Inn that stands just down the hill from the Black-a-Moor on the valley side. The Gate was built as a farmhouse and cottages for farm workers used to stand where the car park is now. By 1833, part of the property had been given over to a beerhouse, the first recorded landlord being James Oates. It is not known whether beer was ever brewed on the premises, but it is a possibility.

It is however known that the area available to drinkers then was much smaller than it is today, being limited to the front part of today’s lounge (a wooden beam marks the point where the beerhouse joined the residential part of the property). The room on the other side (entered from the garden) was not originally part of the beerhouse. In those days, beer was served by jug from the cellar. The beerhouse licence was not replaced with a full licence until 1950.

The 1841 census recorded that James Oates, aged 45, was a beerhouse keeper, and lived with his wife, Elizabeth (also 45 years old) and their children Ann (15), Elizabeth (12) and Mary (10). This again suggests that Oates did not have any other occupation and so the beerhouse must have provided enough to live on.
Indeed, this monopoly for retailing beer to thirsty sickle makers and farm hands attracted competition for a short period. A second (unnamed) beerhouse is listed at Troway in the 1860s, run by Mark Fox. The 1841 census records a Mark Fox living in Troway, at that time he was a 35 year old sickle grinder.

One family with a long association with the Gate is the Allen family. James Allen was listed as running a beerhouse in 1860, and the business subsequently passed to John Allen (who was also a shoemaker), Mary Allen, Alexander Allen and finally in 1921 Mrs Mary Ellen Allen (probably Alexander’s widow). Mary Ellen Allen was still recorded as being at the Gate in 1941.

Several breweries have owned the Gate - Shipstones (early 1900s), Chesterfield Brewery, and then Mansfield Brewery when they acquired Chesterfield Brewery in 1935. Mansfield sold the pub to Burtonwood Brewery in April 1989 in a deal that also included the Fox & Hounds at Marsh Lane. It has been a regular entry in the Good Beer Guide since 1997 and hosts a marrow competition every October.

The source of the name the ‘Gate’ is often proximity to a tollgate on a turnpike road. On this occasion it could simply be a reference to a common piece of farming furniture that is very familiar in the Moss Valley - the 5-bar gate (as depicted on the pub’s signboard).

Jim McIntosh

This webpage was last updated on Sunday, 07 October 2007

 

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